in Paris that are free for everyone every day; there are others that are free for students every day, and there are others that are free for everyone one Sunday a month.In addition, there are plenty of other ways, besides visiting museums and monuments, of enjoying Paris, its ambiance and its life, without spending more than is needed for a cup of coffee or a beer on a café terrace.- The permanent collections of museums owned and run by the City of Paris tend to be free.But portrait or no portrait, Montmartre is worth a visit for the atmosphere.

But the steps are not hard, and wind up through a garden, with great views over the rooftops of Paris.

At the top, the Sacré Coeur basilica has the largest mosaic in France.

Beside the Sacré Coeur, the old "village" of Montmartre, with its narrow streets and square, throngs with artists studios, street artists, cafés and restaurants.

Though some of the artists will do you a decent portrait, there are also many scam artists; if you want to have your portrait done, prefer the more sedentary artists on the square, la Place du Tertre, who will sit you down on a chair, to the mobile artists who accost people in the street.

Walk through the old streets, enjoy the sights, the curiosities and mouthwatering smells from the many small restaurants in the little streets between the Boulevard Saint Germain and the Seine; or look at books and go window shopping in the stores of the Boulevard Saint Michel.

Although it is very touristy, Montmartre still has plenty of charm and atmosphere, and by far the best way to see it is on foot.

This magnificent tree-lined boulevard runs 1900 metres (just over a mile) from the Place de la Concorde to the Place charles de Gaulle, or Place de l'Etoile, in the middle of which stands the great Arc de Triomphe, or Triumphal Arch, erected in the 19th century to commemorate the victories of Napoleon.

Walk up the Champs Elysées on the right side if you want to see the most popular shops, including many flagship outlets for international brands.

Down near water level, the lower quais, once used as towpaths, are among the great romantic spots in Paris. The Latin quarter The narrow streets off the left bank of the Seine - that is the left bank in relation to the flow of the river - are full of small shops, from classic tourist shops to clothes shops, as well as cafés and restaurants.

There are also arts and craft shops, including antiquarian booksellers, specialist bookshops, and small art galleries.

Luxor obelisk dating from the thirteenth century BC.